Recent Posts by Bryan Fowler

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Jul 13, 2009
Smile Bryan Fowler 3 post(s)

Topic: Workflow / Shadow slider acting odd / RED workflow

I’m experiencing something odd with the shadow slider.

I’ll describe my problem, then the workflow.

I use the shadow slider to bring down the blacks, I’m watching the waveform, and when the trace gets to the 10-15ire mark, it starts moving very quickly. What I end up getting is a bit of posterization in the shadows.

Usually, I adjust the Master lift in the Primary room first (sometimes I just use the shadow slider). I bring shadows down to 0, then tweak master gain and gamma. I experience the same thing with Master Lift.

I’ve noticed that in the [Settings 2] tab, if I change Override the header from Linear to Film, the shadows seem to behave how I am accustomed to. (with other footage, ProRes422, that I’ve graded in color)

I am working with R3D files. I’ve been experimenting with the RED tab, and nothing I do in there seems to effect the shadow.

I feel like there is something fundamental that I am missing, and I’d LOVE to know what that is.

Can anyone help? Do you need more info?

I feel like the problem lies in the header settings, but I don’t know enough about that to do something intelligently. And if I change something, what the repercussions might be.

Thanks

I’m used to an even movement, and I watch the trace move down the WFM.

 
Nov 11, 2008
Smile Bryan Fowler 3 post(s)

Topic: The art of Color / Skin Tones / Green bits

Hi Guys,
Nice to meet you all.

I’m having an odd issue with my skin tones. (ST)

Most of the footage I’ve received lately has the ST more towards the red (shot on RED, EX1, HVX200a), so I try and pull the midtones more to peachy, and things go green. I correct the blacks, and highlights back to where they should be, and still.. green.
My goal is the I line, but once it’s there, blotchy parts of their face are green, and they look sick.

I’m attempting this in the Primary room, using only the midtone wheel. I can pull a secondary key for the ST and do things there, but it still seems a bit green. So I then use a 2nd tab, and correct the green bits back to normal.

My usual method is as follows.
1. make blacks black, usually using the advanced tab
2. make whites white, usually using the advanced tab
3. Adjust gamma with the mid tone wheel
4. Attack ST with the mid tone wheel
5. Fix what I screwed up in Secondaries.

Of course, sometimes I use Secondaries to work with ST.

(gosh, I just read that, and I think i confused myself… i’ll post it anyway, and correct things as I go)

I’ll try and do screenshot later when I’m not rushing around.

Here is some background for me.

-FCP user since it was released.
-Color user since Apple grabbed it.
-Color training includes;
-NED Color 101
-Peachpit’s Color book
-Steve Hullfish’s “The art of color corrction” (or something like that)
-Completed 20 odd projects that I used color correction on. (clients liked’em, awards were won)
JVC DTV20L1u for monitoring with Black Magic HD Link Pro for converting HDSDI for the monitor. •I know the monitor isn’t the best for CC, but it works ok for what I do now, and so much better than the Cinema Display. eCinema display is up next..once funds arrive. heh

 
Oct 28, 2008
Smile Bryan Fowler 3 post(s)

Topic: Tips, Tricks and Tutorials / Hullfish, The Art and Technique Of Digital Color Correction

What I appreciated most about the book was a good mix of technical and subjective content. Where as the Peach Pit book was more of a “this button does this” book.

Another thing was the conversations with the colorists on the DVD. It’s just in Text form, but what a great resource to have. It was money well spent for me, and I reference it often.